Over 30 years ago I was invited to spend Dia de Los Muertos in Patzcuaro, Michoacán, possibly the most traditional observance of Day of the Dead in modern Mexico. We travelled in
To clarify a common misconception, Dia de Los Muertos is NOT Mexico’s version of Halloween, and the 2 events are not connected culturally at all. Dia de Los Muertos takes place on November 1st and 2nd; the first day honors children who have passed away and the second honors adults. Having been passed down from the Aztecs, Mexicans have been following this tradition for thousands of years. These spirits aren’t scary or somber but loving honored guests.
Here in La Paz in 2019 Dia de Los Muertos is a little less homespun and a little less romantic, but it’s still a much-anticipated and joyful celebration. People gather at both the pantheon (cemetery) and at the Teatro de la Cuidad (city theater) for the outdoor festivities.
We went to El Teatro this year, and teeming with color and music, the place was alive. There ere a variety of decorated ofrendas (altar) inviting spirits of relatives and famous people to join us. One honored a well-loved grandfather who died this past year; his altar was adorned with his personal items, photos and plates of his favorite foods. And at all the altars there were multitudes of marigolds (the smell attracts the spirits), pan de muerto (sweet bread decorated with shapes of bones), sugar skulls, candles, copal incense (the smell directs the spirits), papel picado (cut-out tissue paper rectangles signifying the wind and the fragility of life) and the ubiquitous skeletons.
Altars are not just found at public celebrations. It’s very common for a Mexican family to set up a personal altar in their home. Whether simple or elaborate, it tells a story, stirs up memories and shows respect to loved ones.
Good music, dancing and comedy were onstage, and the beautiful silent Catrinas were drifting
The Parade of the Catrinas is always a fun part of the show. Each Catrina is introduced onstage and judged in either the children or adult category…a difficult job! The quality and creativity of the costumes and the powerful attitudes of the performers are magical.
Our visit to Dia de los Muertos 2019 ended with churros and coffee.
I’m pretty sure that Frida Kahlo stopped by our table. Nice but kooky.
And Tom Petty was a no-show.
– Fern Corraini
More photos of Dia de Los Muertos…